Twice-Cooked Pork

Bring a large pot of water to boil.

Add the pork and simmer until it is just cooked through, about 25 minutes.

Remove the pork from the water and let cool. (Water can be set aside for use in stock, or discarded.)

Place the belly in the refrigerator for an hour or more to firm up the flesh.

When the meat is cool, slice it thinly so you have 1/4-inch thick rectangles of meat.

Heat oil or lard in wok over medium-high heat until shimmering.

Add the slices of pork and stir-fry until the fat has rendered somewhat and the skin is brown and somewhat crisp, about 2 minutes. Push the pork to one side of the wok and add the chili bean paste. Stir-fry until the oil is red, then add the sweet bean paste and the black beans and stir-fry for a few seconds longer.

Mix everything together and add the soy sauce and the sugar/

Add the leeks or ramps and stir-fry until they are just cooked, about 30 seconds.

Serve immediately.