Braised Veal Shanks

Put oven rack in middle position and preheat to 350°F.

Bring demiglace to a simmer in a 1-quart saucepan over moderate heat.

Remove from heat and keep warm, partially covered.

Pat shanks dry and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Dredge shanks in flour to coat, shaking off excess.

Heat oil in a 5- to 6-quart wide heavy ovenproof pot over moderately high heat until just smoking, then brown shanks on all sides, about 10 minutes total, and transfer with tongs to a plate.

Add butter to pot and heat until foam subsides, then sauté onions, carrots, celery, and garlic, stirring occasionally, until onions are softened, about 9 minutes.

Add wine, scraping up any brown bits, then add warm demiglace, tomatoes, and bay leaf. Return shanks (with any juices accumulated on plate) to pot and bring liquid to a boil, then cover pot and braise shanks in oven until meat is very tender, about 2 1/2 hours.

Carefully transfer shanks with a slotted spoon to a clean plate and keep warm, loosely covered with foil. Skim fat from sauce, then simmer, uncovered, on top of stove, stirring occasionally, until slightly thickened, about 15 minutes. Season sauce with salt and pepper and add shanks, then cook over low heat until heated through. (Discard strings and bay leaf before serving.)

Stir together parsley, zest, rosemary, and thyme and sprinkle over osso buco just before serving.

*Available at specialty foods shops and cooking.com.

•Osso buco (without gremolata) can be made 1 day ahead. Cool completely, uncovered, then chill, covered.

*Available at specialty foods shops and cooking.com.