Stilton Cheese Puffs

Put oven rack in middle position and preheat oven to 400°F.

Combine beer, butter, and salt in a 1 1/2- to 2-quart heavy saucepan and bring to a full boil over high heat, stirring until butter is melted. Reduce heat to moderate and add flour all at once, then cook, stirring vigorously with a wooden spoon, until mixture pulls away from side of pan, about 30 seconds. Continue to cook, stirring and flattening batter against bottom of pan, until excess moisture is evaporated and a film forms on bottom of pan.

Remove from heat and cool 5 minutes.

Add eggs 1 at a time, beating well with wooden spoon after each addition. (Batter will appear to separate initially but will become smooth once beaten.)

Add cheese and stir until combined well.

Spoon batter into pastry bag. Line a large baking sheet with a sheet of parchment paper, then secure parchment by piping a dab of batter under each corner. Pipe approximately 3-inch lengths of batter 1 inch apart on baking sheet, making about 40 total.

Bake until puffed, golden, and crisp, 20 to 25 minutes. Cool slightly before serving.

Cheese puffs are best when freshly baked but can be made 4 hours ahead and reheated in a 350°F oven 10 minutes.