South American Corn Packets

Carefully shuck corn, individual husk by husk, keeping husks as intact as possible and cutting stem as necessary to release. Reserve husks. (You will need 20 to 25 of the widest husks for making humitas, and about 12 more for making ribbons and lining steamer.)

Remove and discard silk. Stand a box grater in a pie plate or wide bowl and, using largest holes, grate enough corn from cobs to measure 2 cups, including liquid. Reserve cobs for steaming humitas.

Submerge husks in a wide 6- to 8-quart pot of boiling water using tongs, then

turn off heat, leaving husks in water until ready to use.

Mince white and pale green parts of scallions and separately mince 2 tablespoons of scallion greens.

Heat butter in a 10-inch heavy skillet over moderately high heat until foam subsides, then sauté bell pepper, chile, and white and pale green parts of scallions, stirring with a wooden spatula, until softened and pale golden, 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in salt, cinnamon, and grated corn (including liquid) and bring to a simmer. Reduce heat to low.

Whisk together milk and eggs in a small bowl, then stir into corn mixture and cook over low heat, stirring constantly, until mixture begins to hold its shape and resembles very loose scrambled eggs, 3 to 5 minutes.

Transfer mixture to a bowl set in a larger bowl of ice and cold water and cool to room temperature. Stir in scallion greens.

Make about 25 ribbons from narrowest husks by tearing husks lengthwise into long 1/2-inch-wide strips.

Pat 4 or 5 husks dry and arrange, cupped sides up, on a kitchen towel with wider ends of husks nearest you. Put about 2 tablespoons of corn filling in middle of 1 husk. Fold sides over filling to enclose, then fold bottom end up over filling and fold narrower top end down over bottom (narrow end may reach around to back of package). Tie package closed with a corn husk ribbon. Repeat with remaining husks (4 or 5 at a time), filling, and ribbons.

Lay reserved cobs in horizontal layers in bottom of a 6- to 8-quart heavy pot (do not pack tightly), cutting some in half if necessary to make an even shelf on which to steam humitas.

Add enough water to almost cover cobs, then arrange some of remaining husks in a layer over cobs. Stand humitas upright on husks and cover with another layer of husks. Bring water to a boil, then cover pot and steam humitas, adding more water if necessary, until filling is firm and separates easily from husk when opened (test one), about 40 minutes.

Humitas can be assembled 4 hours before steaming and chilled, covered.