Rosemary-Crumb Beef Tenderloin with Pancetta-Roasted Tomatoes

Heat oven to 500°F with rack in middle.

Make a deep cut into the top side of tenderloin, about 4 inches from tail end, to facilitate folding the tail end under the roast to give the meat a more uniform thickness. Tie roast at 1-inch intervals with kitchen string.

Cook pancetta in a large rimmed baking sheet in oven, stirring once, until fat is rendered and pancetta is crisp, 4 to 8 minutes.

Transfer pancetta with a slotted spoon to a bowl.

Add tomatoes and 1/4 teaspoon each salt and pepper to fat in rimmed baking sheet and stir, then roast in oven 15 minutes.

Stir in garlic and olives and roast until tomatoes are falling apart and browned in patches, 2 to 4 minutes.

Remove sheet from oven, then add pancetta and 1/2 cup water, scraping up brown bits.

Lower oven temperature to 350°F.

Toss together bread crumbs, 2 tablespoons oil, and 1/4 teaspoon each salt and pepper in a bowl.

Stir together mustard and rosemary in a small bowl.

Pat tenderloin dry and sprinkle all over with 1 1/4 teaspoons each salt and pepper, rubbing into meat.

Set roasting pan over 2 burners, then add remaining 3 tablespoons oil and heat over medium-high heat until shimmering. Brown tenderloin on all sides, about 10 minutes.

Spread top and upper part of sides with mustard mixture, then sprinkle evenly with bread crumbs. Pat lightly to adhere.

Roast tenderloin until thermometer inserted diagonally 2 inches into center of thickest part of meat registers 120°F, 30 to 40 minutes.

Transfer beef to a cutting board and let stand 15 minutes (internal temperature will rise to about 130°F for medium-rare).

Set roasting pan over 2 burners and add remaining 1 cup water. Bring to a boil, scraping up brown bits, then stir in tomato mixture and parsley.

Cut tenderloin into 1/2-inch-thick slices, discarding string, and serve with tomato mixture.

•Whole tenderloins can come in various stages of trimming, particularly those from big-box stores. Some still have the chain attached—a long, thin, loose muscle hanging onto one side of the tenderloin—which you'll want to remove and save for something like kebabs. (Either ask the butcher to do the honors or do it yourself.) Whether the tenderloin comes trimmed (a.k.a. peeled) or not, make sure there is no fat or silverskin left on the outside. If there is, remove it yourself with a sharp knife.•Tomato mixture can be made 1 day ahead and chilled. Reheat before proceeding with recipe.