Polenta "Pizza" with Crumbled Sage

Bring 4 cups water to a boil in a large heavy saucepan and add 2 teaspoons salt.

Whisk in the polenta and continue whisking as it begins to bubble. After a minute or two, when the polenta has thickened a bit, reduce the heat to low and let cook gently, stirring occasionally, for about 45 minutes, until thickened and smooth, with no raw cornmeal taste. If the polenta gets too thick as it cooks, add a bit more water.

Remove a spoonful and cool, then taste and adjust the seasoning, if necessary.

Spread the polenta on a lightly oiled baking dish to a thickness of 1/2 inch.

Let cool and set, preferably overnight, in the refrigerator.

Heat the oven to 400°F, with a rack in the top third. Tear the mozzarella into big shreds and scatter over the polenta. Top with the Parmesan.

Drizzle lightly with oil and crumble the sage leaves on top.

Bake the polenta until the cheese is bubbling and lightly browned, 10 to 15 minutes.

Sprinkle with red pepper flakes and freshly ground black pepper to taste and let cool slightly.

Serve cut into rough wedges or squares.

You can dry a bunch of fresh sage by leaving it on a windowsill for a day or two. Freshly dried sage is quite flavorful, but if you don't get around to this, don't substitute sage from a jar—use a little chopped rosemary instead.

Excerpted with permission from One Good Dish: The Pleasures of a Simple Meal by David Tanis. Copyright © 2013 by David Tanis; photographs copyright © 2013 by Gentl & Hyers. Published by Artisan, a division of Workman Publishing Company, Inc.