Veal Involtini

Put oven rack in middle position and preheat oven to 350°F.

Spread bread crumbs in a shallow baking pan and toast, stirring once or twice, until golden, 8 to 10 minutes.

Gently pound veal cutlets to slightly less than 1/8 inch thick between 2 sheets of plastic wrap with flat side of a meat pounder or with a rolling pin, then cut into roughly 4- by 3-inch pieces.

Stir together parsley, garlic, 3/4 cup cheese, 1/4 cup oil, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper until a paste forms.

Stir together bread crumbs, remaining 1/2 cup cheese, and remaining 1/2 teaspoon pepper.

Season cutlets lightly with salt and pepper and spread 1 side of each piece with 1 teaspoon parsley-garlic paste.

Line a baking sheet with wax paper.

Roll up veal pieces (paste sides up), starting from a short side. Put remaining cup oil in a bowl and dip each roll in it, letting excess drip off, then dredge in bread-crumb mixture, pressing gently to help crumbs adhere.

Transfer to baking sheet.

Thread 1 veal roll onto a skewer, then 1 piece of onion, leaving about 1/4 inch between. Repeat on same skewer 2 more times, then transfer skewer to baking sheet. Assemble 6 more skewers in same manner (last skewer will have only 2 rolls).

Prepare grill for cooking. If using a charcoal grill, open vents on bottom of grill, then light charcoal. Charcoal fire is hot when you can hold your hand 5 inches above rack for 1 to 2 seconds. If using a gas grill, preheat burners on high, covered, 10 minutes, then reduce heat to moderately high.

Grill veal on a lightly oiled grill rack, covered only if using gas grill, turning over once, until rolls are golden, about 6 minutes total.

Remove veal and onion from skewers and serve immediately.

•Veal and onion can be threaded onto skewers 1 day ahead and chilled, loosely covered.•If you're unable to grill outdoors, you can broil veal and onion skewers. Preheat broiler and lightly oil rack of a broiler pan. Broil skewers in 2 batches 4 to 6 inches from heat, turning over once, until golden, about 6 minutes per batch.