Seafood Risotto (Risotto ai Fruitti di Mare)

In a small saucepan, warm the fish or vegetable stock. Keep warm.

In a large saucepan over moderately low heat, warm the olive oil.

Add 1 tablespoon of the butter and the onion, and sauté, stirring occasionally, until tender (there should be no color), about 5 minutes.

Add the rice and toast lightly for 1 minute without letting the rice or onion take on any color.

Add the wine and cook until almost completely absorbed.

Add most of the stock (it should come about 1/2 inch above the rice) and bring to a simmer. Cook the risotto, stirring occasionally, until the rice has absorbed some of the liquid, about 8 minutes.

Add the clams, mussels, squid, scallops, and tomatoes, and continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until the seafood is cooked and the rice is al dente, about 6 minutes more. As the rice continues to absorb the liquid, add more as needed.

Remove the risotto from the heat and add the parsley, garlic, brandy, olive oil, Parmigiano-Reggiano, if using, and the remaining 2 tablespoons butter. Stir well to release the starches and make the risotto creamy. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and serve immediately.