Pommes de Terre Lorette

Heat the oven to 250°F and arrange a rack in the middle.Peel the potatoes and cut them into 1-inch chunks.

Place in a medium saucepan, cover with cold water by 1 inch, season heavily with salt, and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium and simmer until the potatoes can easily be pierced with a knife, about 12 to 15 minutes.

Drain the potatoes in a colander, transfer to a baking sheet, and spread into a single layer.

Bake until the surface of the potatoes is dry to the touch, about 5 minutes. Meanwhile, wash and dry the saucepan.

Transfer the potatoes to a medium bowl and mash with a potato masher until very smooth. (Alternatively, run the potatoes through a ricer or a food mill.)

Heat the milk, water, butter, salt, pepper, and nutmeg in the clean saucepan over medium-high heat until the butter has melted and the mixture has come to a boil.

Remove the pan from the heat, add the flour, and stir with a wooden spoon until the flour is completely incorporated and the mixture forms a rough, shaggy dough, about 30 seconds.

Place the pan back over medium-low heat and continue to stir until the mixture forms a smooth ball, pulls away from the sides of the pan, and a thin film forms on the bottom of the pan, about 2 minutes.

Transfer the mixture to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment and let cool for 5 minutes.With the mixer on medium-low speed, add the eggs 1 at a time, letting each incorporate completely and beating until the mixture is completely smooth before adding the next. Continue beating until the mixture is smooth, sticky, and glossy, about 4 to 5 minutes total, scraping down the paddle and bowl as needed. Scrape down the sides of the bowl and leave the choux mixture in the stand mixer bowl.To fry the potatoes:Keep the oven at 250°F and the rack in the middle. Set a wire rack over a baking sheet; set aside.

Heat the oil in a large Dutch oven or heavy-bottomed pot over medium-high heat until it registers 350°F on a deep-frying/candy thermometer.Meanwhile, add the potato mixture to the choux mixture and mix on medium-low speed until just smooth and combined, about 1 minute.

Transfer some of the mixture to a large piping bag fitted with a 3/4-inch star or round piping tip; set aside.When the oil is ready, pipe 8 (2-inch) lengths of the mixture into the oil, using a knife or kitchen shears to cut off each length of dough at the end of the piping tip. Fry, turning once, until golden brown all over, about 2 minutes total. Using a slotted spoon or spider skimmer, transfer the pommes de terre lorette to the rack on the baking sheet, season with salt, and place in the oven to keep warm. Continue frying the mixture, making sure the oil returns to 350°F between batches and refilling the piping bag as needed.

Serve immediately.