Pickled Swiss Chard Stems

Toss chard stems, shallot, and salt in a colander set in the sink.

Let stand 1 hour. Rinse and drain well.

Meanwhile, toast mustard and caraway seeds in a small skillet over medium heat, stirring often, until mustard seeds begin to pop, about 2 minutes.

Let seeds cool.

Bring vinegar, sugar, and 1 cup water to a boil in a small saucepan; let cool slightly.

Pour brine into jars.

Let cool slightly, then cover and chill.

DO AHEAD: Pickles can be made 2 weeks ahead. Keep chilled.

Pickled Green Papaya

Use the same salting method and brine, but instead of chard stems and shallot, use 1 sliced seeded peeled green papaya (about 1 lb.). Omit mustard and caraway seeds, and use 2 red or green Thai chiles and one 1"-piece peeled turmeric or ginger, thinly sliced.Pickled Banana Chiles

Use the same salting method and brine, but instead of chard stems and shallot, use 1 lb. fresh banana chiles (cut a long slit in each pepper to allow brine to penetrate) and 1 sliced peeled carrot. Omit mustard and caraway seeds, and use 1 garlic clove.