Spring Shellfish Stew

Heat a large, deep soup pot over medium heat.

Add the pancetta, cover, and cook until browned, stirring frequently, about 10 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the pancetta to a paper towel-lined plate, leaving the fat in the pot.

Add the onion to the pot and cook until soft, about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Add the garlic, red pepper, and kale, season to taste with salt and pepper, and cook for another 10 minutes, stirring and turning as the kale on the bottom cooks down. Increase the heat to high, add the wine, and simmer for 2 minutes. Use your hands to break the tomatoes into small pieces and add them, along with their juices, and the clam juice, stock, and pancetta to the pot. Lower the heat to medium and simmer the stew, partially covered, until the kale is soft and the tomatoes begin to break down, about 30 minutes. (You can add a little water, if too much evaporates.) Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Add the clams and mussels to the pot and cook, tightly covered, for 5 minutes.

Add the fish and shrimp, if using, stirring them into the broth, and simmer, covered, until the fish is cooked and all the shellfish have opened, another 5 minutes or so.

Serve piping hot in bowls, sprinkled with the parsley. (Discard any clams or mussels that wont open.)