Fried Pastry Rings

Bring milk, butter, salt, and zest to a boil in a 2-quart heavy saucepan over high heat, stirring just until butter is melted, then reduce heat to moderate.

Add flour all at once, stirring vigorously with a wooden spoon until mixture is smooth and pulls away from side of pan, 1 to 2 minutes.

Remove from heat and cool slightly, 1 to 2 minutes.

Add eggs 1 at a time, stirring vigorously after each addition until smooth.

Heat 2 inches of oil in a 4-quart deep heavy pot (preferably a cast-iron Dutch oven) over moderately high heat until thermometer registers 360°F.

Sift together sugar and cinnamon into a bowl.

While oil is heating, roll rounded tablespoons of dough into balls with dampened hands and put them on an oiled sheet of plastic wrap. Pick up a ball and make a hole in the middle with your thumb, then insert the handle of a wooden spoon in the hole. When oil reaches 360°F, carefully lower dough on handle into oil, then gently widen hole with a circular motion of spoon until dough rises to surface, about 30 seconds (don't worry if some break open).

Remove spoon, leaving buñuelo cooking in oil, and repeat with 4 more balls. Fry, turning occasionally, until deep golden and cooked through, 6 to 7 minutes.

Drain briefly on paper towels. Turn warm buñuelos in sugar mixture to coat.

Form and fry more buñuelos, in batches of 5, in same manner.

* Available in Italian markets, specialty foods shops, and at Dean & DeLuca (877-826-9246).