Smoked Turkey

For the brine:The night before cooking, combine salt, brown sugar, peppercorns, allspice, and water in a 4-gallon container; set aside.

Remove giblets and neck from the turkey cavity. Reserve and refrigerate the neck; discard the giblets.

Remove any wire or plastic holding the legs together. Rinse the turkey inside and out with cold water. Holding the legs, slowly submerge the turkey into the salt-water solution. Cover and refrigerate for 8 to 10 hours.The next day, remove the turkey from the brine, rinse with cold water, and pat dry with paper towels.

Remove the cooking grate and set it aside. Fill a chimney starter three-quarters of the way with charcoal; pour the unlit charcoal onto one side of the charcoal grate. Using tongs, stack the charcoal in a slight slope against the side of the grill bowl.

Remove 1 cup of the wood chips from the water, shaking off any excess water, and lay the chips in the middle of the unlit charcoal. Fill the chimney again halfway with charcoal.

Place the chimney on the charcoal grate next to the unlit coals. Twist two or three sheets of newspaper, form the twisted paper into rings, and place them under and inside the chimney. Light the newspaper through the holes at the bottom of the chimney. After about 5 minutes, the charcoal should be red and flames should have appeared toward the top of the chimney.Carefully pour the lit charcoal onto the pile of unlit charcoal on the grate. Use tongs to stack the lit coals on the pile. Top the lit charcoal with another cup of drained, damp wood chips. Set the empty chimney aside.

Place 2 (8-inch square) aluminum pans next to the hot charcoal (these are the drip pans).Set the cooking grate back on the grill. Fill the loaf pan (the steam pan) three-quarters of the way with water (this water is needed throughout the cooking to keep the grill temperature low) and set it directly over the burning charcoal. Set an oven thermometer on the cooking grate near the edge of the grill and opposite the charcoal. Cover the grill, making sure that the bottom and top vents are open and that smoke is coming out of the vents. (If smoke is not coming out, check your fire to make sure it is lit. If it’s not, relight it, using tongs to transfer the warm charcoal from the grill back into the chimney starter.)

Heat the oil in a large frying pan over medium-high heat until shimmering.

Add the onion, apple, and reserved turkey neck. Season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the neck is browned on both sides and the onions are translucent, about 6 minutes.

Add the bourbon, scraping the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon to release any browned bits, and boil until the alcohol is nearly evaporated.

Add the apple cider or juice and bay leaf, continuing to scrape up any browned bits, and boil until reduced by half. Increase the heat to high, add the broth, and bring to a boil.

Remove and discard the neck. Strain the sauce through a fine-mesh strainer set over a medium heatproof bowl; set aside.Melt the butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat.

Add the flour, whisking constantly until it’s the color of peanut butter, about 5 minutes. Slowly pour in the strained sauce, whisking constantly until smooth. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium low and simmer, stirring often, for 2 minutes more. Season as needed with salt and pepper.To serve:Carve the turkey and serve with the gravy.