Mark Bittman's Grilled Mediterranean Chicken Thighs

In a small bowl, combine the chopped herbs, salt, and pepper.

Add enough olive oil to turn the mixture into a loose paste, about 2 tablespoons. Carefully separate the skin of each thigh from the meat, taking care not to tear it completely off, and slip 1 bay leaf under each. Then, spoon in the herb paste, taking care to avoid getting too much on the outside of the skin. Season the outside of the chicken with salt and pepper.

Light one chimney full of charcoal. When all the charcoal is lit and covered with gray ash, pour out and arrange the coals on one side of the charcoal grate. Set cooking grate in place, cover grill, and allow to preheat for 5 minutes. Alternatively, set half the burners on a gas grill to the highest heat setting, cover, and preheat for 10 minutes. Clean and oil the grilling grate.

Place the chicken skin-side up on the cooler side of the grill and cook until the fat has begun to render, about 5 minutes. Turn the chicken over and cook for 20 minutes longer.

Move the chicken (still skin-side down) to the hot part of the grill and cook until the skin is crisp and the meat is cooked through.

Serve the chicken immediately with lemon wedges.