Appenzeller Cheese Crisps

Bring milk just to a boil over moderate heat in a 3-quart heavy saucepan and remove from heat.

Whisk in cheeses until melted, then cool to room temperature, about 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, whisk together flour, baking powder, salt, and pepper in a large bowl.

Stir eggs and beer into cheese mixture, then stir into flour mixture until combined. Force batter through a medium-mesh sieve into a 2-quart measure or bowl and let stand, uncovered, 30 minutes.

Transfer batter to squeeze bottle.

Heat oil in a deep 10-inch heavy skillet (preferably cast-iron) until thermometer registers 320°F. Working very quickly, squeeze batter into hot oil in loose swirls to form 4 (2 1/2-inch) lacy rounds, then fry, turning over once, until golden, about 1 minute total. (Rounds will expand to about 3 inches as they cook.)

Transfer with a slotted spoon to paper towels to drain in 1 layer. Make more crisps in same manner.

Serve warm or at room temperature.

Cheese crisps can be made 2 days ahead and cooled completely, uncovered, then kept in an airtight container, layered between sheets of parchment or wax paper, at room temperature. Recrisp on a baking sheet in a preheated 350°F oven, about 15 minutes.