Venison Tenderloin with Madeira Green Peppercorn Sauce

Put oven rack in middle position and preheat oven to 425°F.

Pat venison dry and sprinkle with black pepper and 1/4 teaspoon salt.

Heat oil in an ovenproof 12-inch heavy skillet over moderately high heat until just smoking, then brown venison on all sides (except ends), about 3 minutes total.

Transfer skillet with venison to oven and roast until thermometer inserted diagonally 2 inches into center registers 115°F, 4 to 5 minutes.

Transfer venison with tongs to a plate and let stand, loosely covered with foil, 5 minutes (temperature will rise to 125°F for medium-rare).

While meat stands, add shallot to skillet (handle will be hot) and cook over moderate heat, stirring, until golden, about 2 minutes.

Add Madeira and deglaze skillet by boiling, stirring and scraping up brown bits, until liquid is reduced by half, about 1 minute.

Add demi-glace and boil, stirring, until sauce is slightly thickened, about 1 minute. Stir in peppercorns, butter, remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt, and any meat juices that have accumulated on plate, then remove from heat.

Cut venison into 1/2-inch-thick slices and serve with sauce.

· Beef tenderloin can be substituted for venison. Use 1 (3/4-lb) filet mignon (3 inches in diameter). Brown on all sides (including ends), about 5 minutes total, then roast until thermometer inserted into center registers 120°F, 18 to 20 minutes.

Let stand, loosely covered with foil, 10 minutes (temperature will rise to 130°F for medium-rare).

Pour off all but 1 tablespoon fat from skillet before making sauce.