Chile-Ginger-Mint Jellies

Bring 2 1/2 cups water, ginger, sugar, and chiles to a boil in a 2-quart saucepan, stirring until sugar is dissolved. Reduce heat and briskly simmer for 10 minutes. Stir in mint, then remove pan from heat. Cover pan with a lid and let stand for 15 minutes. Strain ginger-mint tea through a fine-mesh sieve into a large liquid measuring cup or bowl.

Sprinkle gelatin over remaining 1/2 cup water in cleaned saucepan and let stand for 1 minute to soften.

Heat mixture over medium heat, stirring, until gelatin is dissolved, then stir mixture into ginger-mint tea until combined well.

Measure liquid, and if it's less than 2 1/2 cups, add more water. If it's more, don't worry.

Let mixture cool for 30 minutes, then divide among six (6- to 8-ounce) serving glasses. Chill jellies in a small baking pan, tops of glasses covered with a sheet of paper towel secured by plastic wrap, until set, at least 4 hours.

Beat cream with sugar in a bowl with an electric mixer until it just holds soft peaks. Top jellies with cream, candied ginger, and mint sprigs.

•Because the ginger contributes heat in addition to the chile, some members of the staff found the greater amount of chile a tad too spicy. If you're a chilehead, however, go for the full amount, if not more. If you're chile-shy, then use the lesser amount, and know that the cream will temper the heat.•The sheet of paper towel placed over the glasses absorbs any condensation that might collect on the plastic, thereby preventing any drips back onto the jellies.•Jellies can be made 3 days ahead and kept chilled.