Yu Bo's Shiitake Mushrooms with Scallions

Heat a wok or 12-inch heavy skillet over high heat until a bead of water dropped onto cooking surface evaporates immediately.

Add oil, swirling it around wok, and heat until it begins to smoke.

Add bacon and stir-fry until brown and crisp, about 3 minutes.

Transfer with a slotted spoon to paper towels to drain and reserve for another use.

Add scallions and garlic to bacon fat and stir-fry until fragrant, about 1 minute.

Pour broth down side of wok (it will bubble vigorously), add salt and white pepper, and bring to a boil.

Add mushrooms, then reduce heat and simmer, uncovered, turning occasionally, until tender, about 5 minutes.

Transfer mushrooms to a bowl with a slotted spoon and, when cool enough to handle, cut into 1/4-inch-thick slices.

Drizzle liquid over mushrooms if desired.