Guacamole

Make the chile paste: Grind the onion, cilantro, jalapeo, and salt together in a molcajete until all the ingredients are very finely ground. Alternatively, use a fork to mash all the ingredients to a paste in a wide hardwood bowl.

Cut each avocado in half, working the knife blade around the pit. Twist the halves to separate them and flick out the pit with the tip of the knife. Fold a kitchen towel in quarters and hold it in the palm of your non-knife hand. Rest an avocado half cut side up in your palm and make 3 or 4 evenly spaced lengthwise cuts through the avocado flesh down to the skin, without cutting through it. Make 4 crosswise cuts in the same way. Scoop the diced avocado flesh into the molcajete. Repeat with the remaining avocado halves.

Gently fold the avocado into the paste, keeping the avocado in as large pieces as possible.

Add the tomato, cilantro, and onion and fold in gently. Check and add salt if necessary.

Serve immediately, right from the molcajete (or bowl), with the chips and tortillas.

VARIATIONSGuacamole with Seafood (Guacamole con Mariscos)

Makes 6 servings pound lump crabmeat (preferably jumbo), picked over for shells and cartilage (about cup) pound cooked peeled baby shrimp, left whole, or larger shrimp, cut into small pieces3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro2 tablespoons finely chopped jalapeo1 tablespoon olive oil2 teaspoons chipotle adobo puree

Salt to taste

Toss all the ingredients together in a mixing bowl.

Let stand at room temperature for 20 to 30 minutes.

Prepare the guacamole, adding the marinated seafood salad at the end along with the tomato, cilantro, and onion. Guacamole with Fruit (Guacamole can Frutas)

Makes 6 servings

Diana Kennedy, the Julia Child of Mexican cookbook authors, and Maria Dolores Torres-Izabal, a dear friend and author of The Mexican Gourmet, introduced me to guacamole with fruit. This is a specialty of two states in central Mexico

Morelos and Guanajuato. The contrast between the spicy guacamole and the sweet and juicy fruits is delicious. The dish should always look a little over the topuse the most beautiful, ripe fruits you can find and as many of the embellishments as you like.

Prepare the, guacamole, omitting the cilantro entirely. Gently fold in 12 black grapes, halved; 12 green grapes, halved; and 1 cup peeled and diced (-inch) peaches or mango. Taste the guacamole and add additional chile or salt to balance the sweetness of the fruits.

Pile the guacamole into martini glasses or half-coconut shells and decorate with any or all of these garnishes: sliced peeled peaches, pomegranate seeds, toasted coconut flakes, and/or raspberries.

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