Corn for a Crowd

In a covered 10- to 12-quart pan over high heat, bring 5 to 6 quarts water to a boil.

Meanwhile, pull off and discard cornhusks and silks. Immerse ears in boiling water. Cover and cook until corn is hot, 3 to 5 minutes.

Drain, or lift ears from water with tongs. Season hot corn with choices from the flavor bar, or butter ears and add salt and pepper to taste.

Flavor Bar--Select 1 or more of the following combinations. Each covers at least a dozen ears of corn.

Mix 1 tablespoon salt and 1 1/2 teaspoons chili powder.

Cut 3 limes into wedges. Rub corn with lime wedge, then sprinkle with chili salt to taste.

Mix 3/4 cup purchased thick teriyaki sauce or glaze and 1 tablespoon Asian (toasted) sesame oil. In an 8- to 10-inch frying pan over medium heat, stir about 1/3 cup sesame seed until golden, about 3 minutes.

Brush corn with sauce and sprinkle with sesame seed.

Pesto: In a blender or food processor, combine 1 1/3 cups fresh basil leaves, 2/3 cup olive oil, 1/3 cup grated parmesan cheese, and 2 cloves garlic; whirl until mixture is smooth.

Add salt and pepper to taste.

Spread on corn.

Mix 1/2 cup mayonnaise with 2 tablespoons milk. Put 3/4 cup finely crumbled cotija or grated parmesan cheese and 1 tablespoon ground dried California or New Mexico chilies or chili powder in individual bowls.

Brush corn with mayonnaise mixture and sprinkle with cheese and chilies.

Cilantro-chili-garlic butter.

Mix 3/4 cup (3/8 lb.) melted butter or margarine with 1/3 cup finely chopped fresh cilantro, 1 1/2 to 2 tablespoons minced fresh jalapeo chili, and 2 or 3 pressed or minced cloves garlic.

Brush on corn.

Mix 1/2 cup (1/4 lb.) melted butter or margarine with 1/4 cup minced chives or green onions, 1 tablespoon minced fresh or 1 teaspoon dried thyme, 1 teaspoon grated lemon peel, and 2 tablespoons lemon juice.

Brush butter on corn.

Mix 6 tablespoons olive oil, 3 tablespoons white wine vinegar, 1 1/2 tablespoons Dijon mustard, 1 1/2 tablespoons minced shallot, 2 teaspoons chopped fresh or 3/4 teaspoon dried tarragon, and 1 pressed or minced clove garlic.

Add salt and pepper to taste.

Brush on corn.

Spiced salt: In a 6- to 8-inch frying pan over medium heat, stir 1/2 teaspoon each cumin seed, coriander seed, mustard seed, and black peppercorns until mustard seed begins to pop, about 3 minutes.

Pour into a blender with 1 tablespoon coarse salt and grind to a powder.

Sprinkle on buttered ears of corn.

Curry butter: In a 6- to 8-inch frying pan over low heat, stir 1 1/2 tablespoons curry powder, 3/4 teaspoon ground coriander, and 1/4 teaspoon cayenne until spices are fragrant, about 1 minute.

Add 3/4 cup (3/8 lb.) butter or margarine and stir until melted.

Brush on corn.

Dried tomatobasil butter: In a food processor, whirl 1/4 cup drained dried tomatoes packed in oil until finely chopped.

Add 1/2 cup (1/4 lb.) butter or margarine (at room temperature) and 1 teaspoon dried basil; whirl to blend. Or finely chop tomatoes with a knife and mix with butter and basil in a bowl.

Add salt and pepper to taste.

Spread on corn.