Dark Chocolate Soufflé

Generously butter four 1- to 1 1/4-cup souffl dishes or one 1 1/2-quart souffl dish. If using small dishes, set them slightly apart in a 10- by 15-inch baking pan.

In a 2- to 3-quart pan over medium heat, melt 3 tablespoons butter.

Add flour; stir until mixture is smooth and bubbling. Stir in milk; continue stirring until sauce boils and thickens, about 2 minutes.

Remove from heat.

Add chocolate and stir until smooth.

Add egg yolks and rum and stir until mixture is blended and smooth.

In a bowl, with a mixer on high speed, beat egg whites (use whisk attachment if available) with cream of tartar until foamy. Gradually add sugar and continue beating until short, stiff, moist peaks form. With a flexible spatula, fold a third of the chocolate sauce into whites until well blended.

Add remaining sauce and gently fold in just until blended.

Scrape batter into prepared souffl dishes; if higher than 3/4 full, use foil collar (see "Crowning Glory" below).

Bake in a 375 regular or convection oven to desired doneness: For a soft, creamy center, bake until edges feel set and dry but center 1 to 1 1/2 inches of small souffls or 2 to 3 inches of large one still appear soft and jiggle slightly when dishes are very gently shaken, 12 to 15 minutes for small souffls, 15 to 20 minutes for large one. For a fully set center, bake until surface appears set and fairly dry, 2 to 3 minutes longer for small souffls, 5 to 6 minutes longer for large one.

Serve at once, scooping portions from single souffl with a large spoon. Offer whipped cream to add to taste.

Crowning glory

Souffls look most impressive when they rise dramatically over the rim of the dish. To create a beautiful crown on your souffl, fill the dish about 3/4 full. If it's less full, the souffl may not rise over the rim. If it's more full, the souffl may spill over unless you wrap the dish with a foil collar. Here's how to make one.

Cut a 15-inch-wide sheet of foil 4 inches longer than circumference of dish; fold lengthwise in thirds. Coat one side of the foil strip generously with melted butter, using a pastry brush. Wrap the foil around outside of dish so that at least 2 inches of foil extend above the rim. Fold the ends of the buttered foil strip over several times until snug against dish.